Boom in British Watches Discussed by Christopher Ward CEO, Mike France
British Watchmaking: A New Golden Era
The watch industry is witnessing a resurgence of British craftsmanship, with homegrown brands making a significant impact on the global scene. Two standout names in this thriving independent British watch scene are Christopher Ward and Studio Underd0g.
Christopher Ward, founded in 2004 by Mike France, Peter Ellis, and Chris Ward, disrupted the traditional watch market by pioneering a direct-to-consumer model. This innovative approach allowed them to sell high-quality Swiss-made luxury watches without the burden of traditional retail markups [1][4]. Their debut diver’s watch collection, the Trident line, launched in 2009, and cemented their reputation for blending classic design with innovative features and rigorous quality testing.
The brand's continued evolution, with models improving in materials and technology, such as titanium cases and helium-release valves, showcases their commitment to innovation and quality [3]. Christopher Ward's success is rooted in blending Swiss watchmaking expertise with British entrepreneurship, and their story represents a significant shift in British watchmaking.
Meanwhile, Studio Underd0g, founded in 2021 by Richard Benc, was established with the goal of countering the perceived stuffiness and seriousness in the watch world. Benc reached out to British watch industry figures for help when starting his brand, and has benefitted from the collective momentum of the thriving independent British watch scene [7]. The designs of Studio Underd0g’s watches include themes such as watermelons, salmon skin, and pizzas, offering a refreshing departure from the norm.
One of Studio Underd0g's notable collaborations was with Fears, for a watch design based on the gimlet cocktail, which was the star of this year's British Watchmaker's Day. They have also collaborated with H.Moser on two watches, one at Studio Underd0g prices and the other at H. Moser's more elevated price tag [1].
The success of Christopher Ward and other British watch brands has helped reinvigorate interest in British watchmaking and inspired others to start or grow their own watchmaking ventures. In 2021, Christopher Ward, along with Alistair Audley and Roger Smith, hosted the biggest celebration of British horology ever seen [8]. An exclusive Roger Smith watch was sold at auction for over £600,000 during the event.
As the British watch industry continues to grow, collaboration among brands will be crucial in strengthening the industry as a whole. The goal for British watchmaking should be to become considered as equals alongside globally recognized watchmaking nations, with the professionalization of key brands as they grow and hire more people [9]. Bowman-Scargill believes the British watch industry is heading towards a new golden era, with broader acceptance and enthusiasm for British-designed and British-built watches.
Max Busser, a Swiss watch industry figure, bought a Christopher Ward watch after France's GPHG win, indicating a growing appreciation for British watchmaking [2]. There was significant interest and demand for limited-edition watches at the event, including those from Christopher Ward [5]. There is an appetite for brands claiming a national identity, with "British" gaining momentum in the watch industry [6].
In conclusion, the British watch industry is experiencing a renaissance, with brands like Christopher Ward and Studio Underd0g leading the charge. With a focus on innovation, quality, and a refreshing approach to design, these brands are making a significant impact on the global watch market. As they continue to grow and collaborate, there is no doubt that the future of British watchmaking looks bright.
In the midst of this new golden era for British watchmaking, homegrown brands like Christopher Ward and Studio Underd0g are showcasing Britain's resurgence in the global technology scene, by fusing classic design with innovative gadgets and cutting-edge materials. Christopher Ward's continued evolution, featuring watches equipped with helium-release valves and titanium cases, exemplifies their dedication to technology and quality. Additionally, the whimsical designs of Studio Underd0g's watches, emphasizing themes like watermelons, salmon skin, and pizzas, deviate from traditional watch industry norms, arranging a new face for British watchmaking technology.
